October 20, 2023
2024 Halliday Wine Companion Awards
95 Points, 2020 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon: “It might be a reserve wine, but there’s no need to wait. It would be hard to, anyway, as this is gorgeous. Superfine and long with powdery tannins; there’s latent power almost within yet it hovers around medium bodied. It’s structured and detailed, laden with
flavour and the oak makes its presence known but not overtly so it adds cedar and antique wood aromas plus another layer of tannins. There are also mulberries and blueberries and a kitchen cupboard full of spices. Take it all in. Slowly."
95 Points, 2021 Reserve Chardonnay: “A rich, voluptuous style with the quality fruit masked by decisive winemaking ... or perhaps helping it? Flinty, bolshie, plenty of malty oak, layers of creamy lees, lemon curd and a toastiness with streaky bacon. Imagine an extrovert at a party full of introverts, this is such a wine.”
95 Points, 2022 ‘Coldfire’ Fumé Blanc: “Not much detail about this wine other than: 65% fermented on skins then aged in seasoned French barriques, the remainder made ‘conventionally’ and aged in new oak. Either way, it’s a convincing argument for texture with layers of flavour and detail. It’s smoky and funky, full of fresh Seville oranges and glacé ones too. The phenolics are well handled, there’s a moreish, savoury character throughout and some power, too. It feels like a grown-up wine and gee, it’s good.”
94 Points, 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon: “Expect lots of flavour from licorice, cedar, menthol, and brambleberries to cassis. There’s some density as much as intensity with lightly drying tannins and cedary oak adding to them, too. Thankfully there’s an attractive sweet spot midway, the fruit tempers that and it keeps unfurling the longer it’s in the glass – no surprise there, but it’s lovely to taste the changes. It’s wrangling its way out of youth and will be an upstanding fine mature wine one day.”
93 Points, 2021 ‘Blackwater’ Shiraz Cabernet Malbec: “There’s a coolness, as opposed to greenness, working through this and it’s very appealing. Menthol, too, among dark and red fruits, cassis, currants and cardamon. Ferrous with serious tannins yet still plays across a more medium-weighted palate.”
93 Points, 2020 Merlot: “Proof of the power of cabernet, there’s 10% in this wine and it’s making more than that percentage of itself known. Sneaky methoxypyrazines. Nonetheless, the pretty, red fruits of merlot shine through, too. While it has depth and detail, the palate is supple with plenty of tannins.”
92 Points, 2020 Cabernet Merlot: “Lots of seductive aromas from violets, mulberries and Middle Eastern spices to fresh basil. A youthful, vibrant combo, although the tannins are somewhat unforgiving, they’ll be fine in time. There’s enough vitality and interest to pour this now alongside a rack of sumac-spiced lamb.”
90 Points, 2021 Chardonnay: “There’s plenty to consider in life generally but also here with a wine full of upfront stone fruit and winemaking inputs. There’s a creamy texture and richness from time on lees in oak plus some mlf adding more depth and a butterscotch note – quite spicy, too. More generosity than many chardonnays in Margs.”
flavour and the oak makes its presence known but not overtly so it adds cedar and antique wood aromas plus another layer of tannins. There are also mulberries and blueberries and a kitchen cupboard full of spices. Take it all in. Slowly."
95 Points, 2021 Reserve Chardonnay: “A rich, voluptuous style with the quality fruit masked by decisive winemaking ... or perhaps helping it? Flinty, bolshie, plenty of malty oak, layers of creamy lees, lemon curd and a toastiness with streaky bacon. Imagine an extrovert at a party full of introverts, this is such a wine.”
95 Points, 2022 ‘Coldfire’ Fumé Blanc: “Not much detail about this wine other than: 65% fermented on skins then aged in seasoned French barriques, the remainder made ‘conventionally’ and aged in new oak. Either way, it’s a convincing argument for texture with layers of flavour and detail. It’s smoky and funky, full of fresh Seville oranges and glacé ones too. The phenolics are well handled, there’s a moreish, savoury character throughout and some power, too. It feels like a grown-up wine and gee, it’s good.”
94 Points, 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon: “Expect lots of flavour from licorice, cedar, menthol, and brambleberries to cassis. There’s some density as much as intensity with lightly drying tannins and cedary oak adding to them, too. Thankfully there’s an attractive sweet spot midway, the fruit tempers that and it keeps unfurling the longer it’s in the glass – no surprise there, but it’s lovely to taste the changes. It’s wrangling its way out of youth and will be an upstanding fine mature wine one day.”
93 Points, 2021 ‘Blackwater’ Shiraz Cabernet Malbec: “There’s a coolness, as opposed to greenness, working through this and it’s very appealing. Menthol, too, among dark and red fruits, cassis, currants and cardamon. Ferrous with serious tannins yet still plays across a more medium-weighted palate.”
93 Points, 2020 Merlot: “Proof of the power of cabernet, there’s 10% in this wine and it’s making more than that percentage of itself known. Sneaky methoxypyrazines. Nonetheless, the pretty, red fruits of merlot shine through, too. While it has depth and detail, the palate is supple with plenty of tannins.”
92 Points, 2020 Cabernet Merlot: “Lots of seductive aromas from violets, mulberries and Middle Eastern spices to fresh basil. A youthful, vibrant combo, although the tannins are somewhat unforgiving, they’ll be fine in time. There’s enough vitality and interest to pour this now alongside a rack of sumac-spiced lamb.”
90 Points, 2021 Chardonnay: “There’s plenty to consider in life generally but also here with a wine full of upfront stone fruit and winemaking inputs. There’s a creamy texture and richness from time on lees in oak plus some mlf adding more depth and a butterscotch note – quite spicy, too. More generosity than many chardonnays in Margs.”